The BC 1106 with its diversity of functions is the right choice for the athletically ambitious biker. The integrated storage chip prevents loss of pre-settings and total values during battery change, which is announced in due time by the low battery indicator. Two wheel size settings are possible, which can be recognized automatically with an optional “BIKE 2 transmitter”. The set is equipped with a digital radio sensor. The receiver is integrated into the bike computer. Low battery indicator – on-time battery change reminder. Integrated storage chip – pre-settings and total values are retained during battery change. Active mode without total values – total values faded while riding to enable better focusing on the necessary functions. Bike 2 Sensor – total values faded while riding to enable better focusing on the necessary functions. Backlight – optimal readability even after nightfall. Water resistant.

User Ratings and Reviews

2 Stars Not weatherproof
At the begining this product was working perfectly, to my surprise because this computures usually give you a hard time. This was until I went to to a trial with losts of water and lots of rain, and some water must have gotten into the trasnmiter, because it wont work anymore. The display turns on fine, but wont receive any signal. I believe, these wireless computers are not worth it, for this reason. It worked fine about 3 or 4 times. Lost my money.

5 Stars Great Computer
Easy set up and directions and great functionality. No problems what-so-ever picking up the wireless signal.

2 Stars Not very good, Blackburn is better
This one actually made me truly appreciate my Blackburn Delphi 4.0, even for all its own issues, it was so much better than this one. This one takes forever to sync after going to sleep and sometimes never does, almost always have to hit a button to wake it up. I’ve tried adjusting the sensor distance and gap, that’s not the issue. What is really awful is the accuracy and slow pace of updates. This reads ONLY IN .5 MPH INCREMENTS! That means accuracy is +/- .5 mph or AS MUCH AS A FULL 1 MPH! Furthermore, updates seem to be infrequent, as is obvious when braking. I’ll be at a dead stop for 3-4 seconds before it reads 0 mph. If you are a cyclist who seriously uses a cyclometer for feedback, this one is useless. There is no good way to tell if the gear change or extra effort you just put in are getting you any acceleration… things that are almost intuitive with the Blackburn, which reads to .1 mph and seems to update real-time. Oh, and those godawful rubber bands for mounting… Sure they are easy… until you screw up and one goes flying never to be seen again… And when you are done, the head unit swivels around the handlebars requiring adjustment constantly. This is really only a good cyclometer for casual users and kids. I would never recommend it to anyone who has a serious need for real-time and accurate performance feedback. I will be buying a Blackburn Delphi again soon. Even if it dies again after a year (note, a year for me is 8000-10000 miles, so expect yours to last longer), it’s a better deal because it does the job I need. This one is just a waste of handlebar space.

Buy/More Info

SIGMA BC1106 DTS Wireless Bicycle Speedometer is a post from: Cycling Computers Reviews

A post from: Projectors for Home Theater

Sigma’s top model…the BC 1606L DTS wireless provides a better overview of the essential information during a ride by hiding the total accumulated functions and cadence if not installed. The backlight gives optimal readability of this information even in the dark. An integrated storage chip prevents the loss of set values during battery change as features such trip section counter, timer, and second wheel size are programmable. Equipped with a digital radio sensor. The receiver is integrated into the bike computer. Low battery indicator – on-time battery change reminder. Integrated storage chip – pre-settings and total values are retained during battery change. Active mode without total values – total values faded while riding to enable better focusing on the necessary functions. Bike 2 Sensor – total values faded while riding to enable better focusing on the necessary functions. Backlight – optimal readability even after nightfall. Water resistant.

User Ratings and Reviews

1 Star difficult
almost impossible to attach the front fork sensor, I would not reccommend this otherwise excellent product for the new carbon road bikes.

4 Stars Good enough but not the best
The first Sigma I got from Amazon seemed like refurbished. Its buttons were not ok, the counters were not in zero, the protection film was not in the correct place. Amazon replaced it promptly with another one that seems like new.

Installation was a breeze. Very easy and quick. Menu buttons are easy to use too. I bought the cadence kit and it works great with this computer. There are a few things that could be improved:

1) On some occasions the computer shows 0 speed though you are moving (and fast) and then it resumes showing the correct speed. I checked the distance between the magnets and also with the computer and things are correct. I adjusted distances and now the problem seldom occurs but it still happens.

2) Watch out! This product does not include the cadence kit. I must have misread the product descriptions since I missed that and ended up buying it separately. Still with Amazon’s best price I ended up paying a very good deal.

3) Speed is always displayed at the top and you can only change what is displayed at the bottom. This is not of a big deal to me but it could be to you.

Bottom line: I recommend this product considering its price, features and quality.

3 Stars Not Bad….. Using it for a Motorcycle Speedo…………..
I decided to purchase one of these for an alterative to my stardard MPH and milage guage for my motorcycle. I finally got the space and connections correct and it seems to work. A front motorcycle tire is a bit odd, compaired to a bicycle tire – size and travel. The speed has been off about 5-9 MPH slow and I will need to mess around with the tire size setup to dial it in. Should not be a problem………

But…… for milege, trip odometer, clock, light and other calculations, this unit should work close enough for what I’m looking for. I’m glad they sell replacment parts (sensors, etc) here for this bike computer !!

4 Stars Strange engineering – but effective
I have to admit to smiling at some of the comments about mounting the sensors on this computer. The O-ring mounting system is a bit odd. I think wire-ties would be more effective, but I mounted a Trek wireless for my gf and it had it’s problems too, so I’m not sure I’ve seen a really well done mounting system yet. I would like to see a system where the mount and the sensor are separate, like my ToPeak seat bag or my tail light. Then lots of sticky, gooey, rubber stuff and zip ties to squeeze the gooey rubber stuff into the EXACT shape of the fork & chain-stay. I like the cadence zip-tie mount better than the speed sensor O-ring mount, but if you mount the speed sensor on a road bike on the left side it works perfectly. (always mount a sensor on the down-side of the wheel spin so if your wheel ingests a stick it will not pull your sensor into the wheel, ruin it and send you flying over the handle bars)

I have a mountain bike and I think this could be mounted successfully on a shocked fork, just drive down the the auto parts store and shell out $2 for an assortment of O-rings. Destroying the device because you can’t think outside the box enough to see the mounting gear wasn’t intended for the gargantuan forks of a mountain bike is pretty sorry. You could also just take the 2 O-rings supplied, put one on each side of the sensor and zip-tie them together on the back side. If you can’t think your way through a simple problem like this please stay away from carbon bikes which have torque specs all over the place that are at very close tolerances. (use Krytox pure Teflon grease to prevent spalling on things like seat-post clamps and seat adjustment screws – or your torque feel will be waaaaay off)

My only beef with this computer is I wish the buttons were marked as I tend to forget which buttons I need to push to reset everything from my last trip and end up trying to read the display in Polish or inadvertently turn off the cadence sensor. There are 4 buttons, M1, M2, S, R… wouldn’t kill them to mark the face or offer an optional flange that is marked. I’d like to see them ditch the button names and just use button colors instead. Simple, effective, no-brainer. Oh, the sensors are very attractive, and have very large (and long-lasting?) batteries, but especially the cadence sensor is HUGE!

I bought the computer and speed sensor for $60 and tax at REI, and spent $16 here and shipping to get the cadence sensor, so this is a great price.(REI sells the cadence capable 1606L, but doesn’t sell the cadence sensor – stupid and annoying!) All in, it cost me about $85 and took a week to get the whole system together, but I needed the speed part bad enough I paid the price. Ouch!!! (When your riding partner is also a bike mechanic you have to go along with his RX once and awhile or find another riding partner! ) Relative to the Trek sensors, Sigma’s magnets are waaaaaay better. All in all it is a very well made system, I just think the mounting could be done better.

UPDATE: 5/2/2008

I am remounting the cadence sensor using O-rings. The rubber O-rings grip the frame a lot better than any hard plastic zip-tie, and thereby hold the sensors in place much more effectively.

UPDATE II: 5/19/2008

I have now ridden 2 centuries with this and done a few dozen training rides and am developing a love-hate relationship with it. When it works, it’s awesome, but, on the first century when I was trying to pace myself to catch up to my riding partner, the speed stopped displaying. On the century this weekend the cadence sensor stopped displaying (synch problem I assume)after a rest stop. Tired, and bucking strong headwinds is exactly when I need a cadence count. This kind of flaky performance is NOT, NOT, NOT acceptable and must be fixed.

On the other hand, it’s very accurate, it survived a training ride crash with flying colors, and familiar now with the controls and operation I appreciate a lot of the small things – like the lower right button being used to step through the kind of data needed during a ride. When mounted on the right side of the handlebar stem this means you can still grip the handlebar firmly with your right hand and step through the data displays with just your thumb pressing forward. Aside from a fix for the infuriating lack of reliability, a nice feature that could be easily added would be crank rotations per ride calculated as average cadence times number of minutes, or the actual count of cadence triggers. This would be exactly analogous to steps on a pedometer. I have not used this device at night – yet. Can this device’s firmware be updated? If not, why not?

Finally, I remounted the cadence sensor with the O-ring AND a single zip tie. I worry about twisting out of my pedals and knocking the sensor off with my heel. I also worry about it growing legs and walking off when I’m not looking. It’s requires a bit of finesse to use both mounting systems together, but didn’t budge in a 20mph crash.

UPDATE III: 6/9/2008

I changed the battery in the main unit and all of the flaky errors seem to have disappeared. These batteries are pretty cheap so I wish Sigma would just ship the computer without the batteries and cut the price $5. I had a problem with the speed sensor getting out of position relative to its trigger. I don’t know if the sensor slipped down the fork on a sheen of Carnuba wax or if my mechanic moved the trigger on the spoke when he trued the wheels. In either case, if the speed indicator is acting up, keep this simple check in mind.

I’d really like way-points on my computer so I can record the time and distance to significant points on my training rides – like how far to the next water and bathroom. Right now I have about 20 way-points I build rides out of by mixing and matching. It would be a lot easier to do this if I could press a button and say “record all my ride stats at this point”. Temp would be nice too, but I have that function in a cheap Casio watch, so not really missing that much.

UPDATE IV: 8/3/2008

Quite unexpectedly, I’ve now found a use for MINIMUM speed. I built a gear chart in Excel that gives gear ratios and speed based on average cadence. (another great use of the average cadence number this computer provides – in addition to torque * cadence to compute power output) So what low gears do I need for the kind of climbs I’ve started doing? Ummm, I don’t know exactly because I don’t have minimum speed or cadence. If I had minimum speed I could use a target cadence and compute the required gearing. As a general rule, if it CAN be calculated, then please do so. Somebody is going to find a good use for it.

UPDATE V: 9/9/2008

Down-shifting early, and spinning out the approach to a short hill, I glanced at the computer and got a cadence of 102 after having slowed down a bit. What was my max cadence for the ride? Who knows. One more thing this could easily accumulate and display (oh for the lack of a few 16 bit registers…sigh). Cadence, both max and min, matter a lot when working to optimize your gearing and shifting. This would be at least as useful as the up and down arrow display to indicate whether you are above or below average speed – which is only meaningful if you are riding on flat terrain. Such an arrow would be a lot more useful for cadence, which should be fairly constant no matter the terrain, or wind.

1 Star Not for mountain bikes with front shocks
I bought this product in a real store which is entirely independent of Amazon. I decided to write this review just to save others the trouble I had.

This is obviously designed for road bikes without consideration for mountain bikes. Maybe I should have known, but the package didn’t say I *couldn’t* use it for my mountain bike.

The first problem I had was rotating part of the computer mount 90 degrees by unscrewing very small screws with no tool included for doing so. Luckily I had a screwdriver that was small enough (they’re about the size of glasses screws.)

The second problem, and the deciding factor by far, was installation of the sensor. The sensor is to be held on by a thick O-ring which the installer must first fit into one part of the sensor, then pull around the fork and hook into the other end of the sensor. The first problem with this was that I had to pull back a piece of padding on the sensor to even access the slot to put the ring into. When pulling it back, the padding tore off entirely because it was only hot-glued on and there was no real bond to the case. It fit back on and the pressure of the case against the fork was enough to hold it in place, so I proceeded. Next, the O-ring was entirely too thick for the slot provided. I had to stretch it so much that I thought it was going to snap, and even then I had to poke it into the slot with a screwdriver. Not easy to do when one hand is holding the case and part of the ring and the other is stretching the hell out of the ring. That went in finally, and I put the dislocated padding back on.

Upon trying to wrap the O-ring around the fork, I found that it took considerable force to stretch it. So much so that I couldn’t mount the sensor facing the right direction because I couldn’t get enough leverage if I did. At some point I was impressed at how strong the sensor was since it looked so cheap. That didn’t last long. I heard a little bit of cracking, but I had to rotate the case about 180 degrees so that it was oriented correctly. I heard a lot more cracking as I rotated it. I finally took the sensor off and tried to mount it facing the right way so that I wouldn’t have to rotate it. By now the ring was very stretched out, but just as I got it attached to the second slot (which required a finger to put the top part in and a hex wrench to pry the other end in) the entire case split in half. By “split in half” I mean that I was looking right at the *back* of the battery on one half and the bottom of the PC board on the other half. I thought about super gluing it back together for half a second, but then thought that doing so would prevent me from getting my money back.

I’m sure this is a great computer, but you’re probably better off with a wired sensor that requires bolting on. I say this even if you have a road bike with thin forks because the case + installation system has a major flaw which causes the two poorly-bonded sides of the sensor case to be pulled directly apart. In fact, if I *wanted* to break the case open for some reason, I would choose the two points where the O-ring attaches and would pry it apart. The O-ring does essentially that, so it’s only a matter of time before the sensor splits on *any* bike.

Buy/More Info

SIGMA BC1606L DTS Wireless Bicycle Speedometer is a post from: Cycling Computers Reviews

A post from: Projectors for Home Theater